The Colonial Heartland: Aguascalientes

The beginning of June, 2009, I left Aguascalientes for Venice Beach, California, returning home after nearly three years in Mexico. Between my last journal entry and today's, I had many wonderful experiences that I plan to share in this blog. Anyone who has the opportunity to visit the central region of Mexico, is in for a treat.

Central Mexico is often referred to as the Colonial Heartland. It represents Mexico's 16th Century development by the conquistadors (Spanish), their discovery of silver and gold, which led to mining and great wealth. The cities that arose were adorned with fanciful architecture in colorful cantera rosa stone, cobblestone streets and plazas for markets and gatherings surrounded by towering church steeples and well-manicured gardens.

My town, Aguascalientes, was part of the state of Zacatecas. By 1610, the small town of Aguascalientes had approximately 25 Spanish residents, about fifty families of mestizos, at least 100 mulatos, twenty Black slaves, and ten Indians. Most of these twenty-five Spanish inhabitants are believed to have been among the founding families of Aguascalientes, bearing the surnames Ruiz de Esparza, Alvarado, Tiscareno de Molina, Luebana, and Delgado.

With the end of the Mexican Revolution, Aguascalientes became an independent political entity on June 22, 1821. However, soon after, in 1824, the small territory was incorporated as part of the State of Zacatecas and for the next 14 years it remained attached to its northern neighbor. On May 23, 1835, the Mexican Congress declared the formation of the Territory of Aguascalientes, separating the territory from Zacatecas and setting in motion a process that would eventually lead to statehood. The loss of Aguascalientes and its rich agricultural terrain would be a severe blow to the economy and the spirit of Zacatecas.

However, many citizens of Aguascalientes are proud to point out a more romantic version of the events leading to autonomy and independence from Zacatecas. According to Tony Burton in his book, Western Mexico: A Traveler's Treasury, "The independence of Aguascalientes was sealed with a kiss, as the locals are invariably quick to point out." As he was engaged in his campaign against the rebellious Zacatecas government, General Santa Anna met one Doña María Luisa Villa. Legend has it that Santa Anna became captivated by this attractive woman and asked her for a kiss, promising her anything she wanted in return. Her request was that her native land be given autonomy. Santa Anna fulfilled this request, granting Aguascalientes the status of territory. María Luisa's husband, Pedro García Rojas, was appointed as the first Gobernador (Governor) of the Territory of Aguascalientes, serving until June 1836.

Today, Aguascalientes - located near the geographic center of Mexico - remains an important part of the Mexican economy. The state has highway and rail communications networks that link Aguascalientes to many of Mexico's major cities. This easy access to markets across the country has played a major role in stimulating the economy of Aguascalientes. Aguascalientes is also recognized as an important cultural center in Mexico. La Feria de San Marcos, celebrated in late April and early May of each year, is famous throughout the nation. The festival lasts for 22 days and features a wide array of cultural and popular events that draws up to a million tourists annually.

Journey South of the Border

My journey to Aguascalientes, Mexico, began Oct. 2006, after I accepted a job to assist with a start up VoIP company. A man who I'd known for some years, invited me to make a three year commitment to work for him while he got the company up and running. I didn't know much except I was promised to have my living needs covered that included a beautiful house in a secure neighborhood, a Spanish tutor, cook and chauffeur. Plus, I was offered a great salary with a large annual bonus and stock options. How could I say no?

I'd been living in Venice Beach, California, where I still have my rental house. There, I'd been running my own political fundraising business, just getting my feet wet over the past year and meeting some incredible people along the way. Due to a lull in work, I accepted a job with the California List, a political action committee that bundles money to help elect Democratic women to state office. It was a learning experience and the organization does really great work. Not an easy task when so many people are lured by the sexiness of national politics. The Founder and Executive Director, Bettina Duval, is a leader in her own right and will make a great politician if she ever chooses to run for office. I have no doubt in her ability to achieve any goal she sets for herself.

The job with the California List was not my dream job. I was seeking adventure that afforded me more creativity and leadership. I hadn't been with Bettina but a few months when I received the job offer in Mexico. The pressure was on, too, as I was given only days to make a decision and relocate within two weeks. I had many reservations, especially since the person hiring me had lied to me in the past, but he insisted this was his way of making it up to me. My mind kept me awake that first night thinking it over, and by morning I'd decided to make the leap. The next day, I resigned from my job, told my roommate about the plan and shipped my car to Loredo, Texas, where I would fly to pick it up and drive the rest of the way.

Over the next two weeks I organized myself, getting permissions for my car and also my 14-year old cat, Jet. It was not an easy decision to drag him along, but I couldn't leave him behind, either. We've been attached ever since I adopted him after finding him in a garbage bin with the rest of his newborn brothers and sisters. Sticking him in the plane's cargo bin was out of the question, so I squished his 22 pound body into an animal carry-on bag and stuck him under the seat in front of me. The poor guy was not happy. He escaped once in the airport when security insisted I remove him from his container, and then I had to feed him tranquilizers so he wouldn't growl during the flight. The tranquilizers are like kitty Thorazine and made his eyes roll into the back of his head so that only the whites appeared. I poked him a number of times during the flight to make sure he was breathing. It was scary, especially at his age, but he survived the trip to Loredo, and the night in a hotel there.

It was October 15th, when we collected my car from the shipping company and started the journey to Aguascalientes. Loredo sits right on the border with Mexico and the neighboring town of Nuevo Loredo. There's a stark contrast between the two towns, the Mexico side being more rundown with potholed streets and a sense of desperation as so many border towns hold. I drove into Mexico without even realizing I'd crossed the border. The first sign of an official post, I stopped and looked for someone to check my documents, examine my car, anything, but there was no one in the office or in sight, so I continued down the street. Eventually, I passed by a customs office, but when I tried to ask an official for help, she pointed to the cell phone pressed against her ear and signaled me to just continue on my way.

The drive took 13 long hours. We passed through desert, seeing an occasional pueblo where some locals were selling snake skins and peyote buttons. Our route took us through San Luis Potosi rather than Zacatecas. I now know the route through Zacatecas is much better. After only a few hours of driving, we encountered torrential rains that never let up until the following day. The roads were terrible, no shoulders, two-lanes, topes (pron. TOE-pace: Mexican speed bumps that more resemble bricks lain across the road) and huge 18-wheel trucks passing on every hairpin turn. Once we hit the mountains of San Luis Potosi that rise over 7,000 feet, the rain was joined by heavy ground fog, making it impossible to see but a few feet in front of the car.

I was so happy to finally spy the lights glistening through the wet sky that marked Aguascalientes, known for its industrialization and modernity. Arrangements had been made to intially stay at the Fiesta Americana hotel in the center of town until a house was available. Jet and I would take up residence there for two weeks. As I neared the hotel, we had to pass under a bridge where the traffic had backed up to a complete stop. I'll never forget sitting in the car with Jet and watching the water quickly rise above the tires of my car. The streets were flooding and we were trapped! Slowly the traffic started to move and we got out from under the bridge to higher ground without any trouble. The next day I heard that people had drowned.